Matching food and Priorat

I was reminded about my trip to Priorat almost exactly two years ago by my recent visit to the Roussillon which has a similar terroir. And I think the wines would go with similar kinds of food. These were my suggested pairings at the time . . .

Priorat has some of the most expensive wines in Spain but they’re also high in alcohol and reflect their wild, untamed terroir. There’s a marked difference between wines from ‘hot’ vintages like 2003 and 2005 and the more recent fresher cooler wines of 2007 and 2008 and between older vintages and younger ones. The former can develop quite bosky ‘animal’ flavours, particularly those that contain old Carignan but then, surprisingly some can be quite delicate, almost ethereal.

In terms of comparison with other wine regions I would think Châteauneuf is a better reference point than Bordeaux despite the presence in many wines of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Although they obviously appeal to the Asian market to me they’re not the obvious bottle to reach for with subtle, delicate cuisines such as Cantonese or Japanese (although some of the top winemakers are making wines that would match well). The whites (which are again similar to those of the Rhône) are more suited to cooked shellfish, fish and vegetable dishes than to raw or lightly cooked ones.

Like most great wines most would benefit from being served with simple food and as full-bodied reds, grilled and roast meat, especially lamb and beef. The bigger, more broadshouldered wines would pair well with meat served rare with a degree of charring; older vintages with slow roasts like slow roast shoulder of lamb. Lighter more graceful wines from higher vineyards or more recent vintages could work with dishes like braised rabbit. (I particularly liked Sara Perez Ovejero of Mas Martinet’s suggestion of pairing her sumptuous Els Escurcons with braised rabbit wih olives and herbs)

In fact furred rather than feathered game seems a good direction to go. I’d also like to pair Priorat with venison, hare and wild boar (or rare breed pork), again slow-cooked. Think oxtail too. I found a slightly funky 2004 Vall Llach absolutely transformed by a dish of braised oxtail with Priorat and prunes, bringing its primary fruit once more to the fore. It just seems the right thing to do with such strongly terroir-driven wines to pair them with food from the region - or across the Pyrenees with dishes from south-west France. Priorat and cassoulet? Priorat and Toulouse sausages with Puy lentils? Priorat with duck confit? They’d all work.

Then of course there’s cheese. We didn’t have much while we were away but Priorat, which has much in common with rich, brambly wines like Amarone and those from the Douro, would make a good companion for stronger, more challenging cheeses, especially blues. And on the basis of successfully pairing a mature Manchego with some of the wines I’d definitely look at some of Spain’s other excellent sheeps’ cheeses.

Which wines and beers to pair with asparagus

This month I asked my fellow Tweeters to tackle the subject of wine with asparagus - supposed to be a tricky combination, but as @cuvee_corner put it “Maybe it's just me, but I don't see the difficulty.” (It isn't just you. There are plenty of options!)

Sauvignon and Chardonnay were probably under-represented in the feedback because I asked for less usual pairings but it was fascinating to see which other wines you’d found successful.

If you didn’t take part in the survey on Twitter and have a successful asparagus pairing you’re dying to share email me at fionaATmatchingfoodandwineDOTcom

Asparagus whites
* Simple is best, steamed and served with butter and a glass of Muscadet @emmausglos
* Cellar Springs Western Cape Sauvignon Blanc (Co-op 5) is my favourite with asparagus so far this season @Perrin124
* Always love a good NZ Sauv Blanc, Margaret River Sem/Sauv or Cava with asparagus @wine2010
* a good NZ or Chilean Sauv Blanc @finewinedrew
* I like sauvignon blanc with asparagus, especially if chevre & mint are along for the ride @ericvellend
* White Bordeaux? To go with hollandaise? @benpaustin
* A vinho verde with high proportion of Loureiro, very mineral and refreshing! @CasaLeal
* Posh Aligot like Coche Dury @OstreaEdulis (I would also consider Goisot, Ramonet and Aubert de Villaine for good Aligot added @RobertGiorgione)
* Grilled or oven baked asparagus with Chenin Blanc from South Africa or the Loire @iWineReview
*I like my asparagus with melted butter so prefer Chardonnay to Sauvignon but that's personal preference. Or how about a bit of Chenin Blanc or Menetou Salon? @FallowfieldsUK
* Arneis with asparagus, esp with parmigiano atop (the asparagus, that is) @memmw
* I had a Petite Arvine (Swiss white wine) with a dish of asparagus, turkey, ham, egg and a light creamy sauce with curry powder. Good combination! @Wijnkronieken
* Quinta da Cardo Siria from Beiras in Portugal. Has slight taste of gunpowder! but excellent with asparagus @Portovinowines
* White asparagus with Alsace Pinot Blanc. My favourite combination. Reminds me of home in Holland @pieterrosenthal
* I like to serve a dry muscat/moscato giallo/muskateller e.g Alsace, Alto-Adige, Germany or Austrian @robertgiorgione
* Not-so-common matches (so far as I can make out) would be a dry muscat from Alsace and a straight smillon. I love muscat in all forms and would gamble on that. @howardggoldberg
* Sylvaner's a good match for the basic taste of green asparagus @howardvann
* Austria's Riesling Domaine Gobelsburg 2008 is lovely with British asparagus and hollandaise sauce http://bit.ly/bvCNcs @TheWineSociety
* Viognier perhaps? @bkwineper
* Barrel-vinified Mauzac with green asparagus, wild or cultivated @RivesBlanques
* Asp/feta/mint frittata is good with Rueda Verdejo. Also aspergeade + Rolle blends from Provence (Vermentino in Corsica) @foodwinediarist
* In winter when our asparagus comes from Peru I like to serve them chopped over penne with dried morels in mustard cream & nutmeg. I’d pair that with Weiburgunder from the Sdliche Weinstrae end of the Pfalz, Silvaner from Franken, WB or really opulent GV from Austria said @auslese55, adding “and last night we had Kremstal dry muscat w an asparagus/chevre salad. Neuburger is also quite good w Spargel.”
* @spicespoon and @cheeserus were also Gruner fans “something like Werner Michlits Meinklang which has a classic savoury pea/celery flavour” said @cheeserus
* Asparagus, basil ice cream, and ripe cherry tomatoes with top South African sparkles (Graham Beck Cuvee Clive was one). @HarryReginald

And with red wine . . .
* I recall having an asparagus (and parmigiano) risotto with a delicate sliver of black truffle accompanied by a soft Tempranillo @harshalshah
* Lacrima di Morro d'Alba by Badiali, a red wine from a small DOC in central Italy with asparagus with a creamy but not lemony sauce @slowgrapes
(I’m surprised more reds weren’t suggested. I’ve found that if you grill asparagus and serve it with olive oil or with sauted mushrooms (a good accompaniment for steak) you can happily serve a light red like a Cabernet Franc (FB)

And even dessert wine (though I remain to be convinced ;-)
* Can recommend Sauternes - had a wonderful 1999 Rieussec last Saturday which matched up beautifully! @SauternesSteve (though he revealed it was served as a vegetable with a spicy lamb dish)

Beer ideas
There was almost as much enthusiasm about pairing beer with asparagus as wine. I’ve always tended to go for witbier but several of you suggested a richer, sweeter style which I'm going to have to try.

* Saison Dupont is a fantastic asparagus match @thornbridgekel (@BrisBeerFactory agreed, “especially with hollandaise”.)
* @thornbridgekel also remembered “a lovely, slightly tart Berlin-Style Wheat Ale by The Bruery in US called Hottenroth”
* Griddled asparagus with Westmalle Triple "totally delicious!" @ZakAvery (you can see Zak’s fascinating video on pairing wine with asparagus on YouTube here)
* Try a dressing of raspberry or cherry beer with fresh tarragon or tarragon mustard for a little kick! @BertinetKitchen
* I had a simple dish of asparagus with lemon butter and black pepper with Paulaner Wheat Beer last night. It shared the same green citrus and aromatic notes @DomLane

My own favourite new asparagus pairing btw is Deutz Champagne with asparagus served with soft boiled eggs, shelled and rolled in breadcrumbs and deep-fried as served at Racine in Knightsbridge which made me think that bubbles might be a way to go with asparagus and hollandaise too.

Thank you all for your great suggestions. Next month I’ll be looking for the best drink for a barbecue!

Is Koshu the best match for Japanese food?

I suspect you’ll be hearing a lot about Koshu this year. No, it’s not some unfamiliar aspect of Japanese cuisine but a white wine made from a grape of the same name. A campaign to promote it in the UK was launched at a lunch in London yesterday by a VIP line-up of Japanese goverment officials from the Yamanashi prefecture where most of the winemakers are based.

So what’s it like? Well, I think it’s fair to say it wouldn’t stand out in a large consumer tasting. The wines - well, the unoaked ones at least - are fresh and clean with a fierce aciidity - not particularly to the current British - or American taste. For nearest comparison think Aligoté, Muscadet-sur-lie, bone dry Riesling. and young Chablis which the Japanese have always liked with food. The oak-aged examples are slightly fuller and rounder but nothing like as rich as a barrel-aged Chardonnay. Viura was the nearest comparison that came to mind.

Apart from a couple of wines which I’ll mention later there weren’t any stand-out examples or perhaps it was simply a question of adjusting ones palate to a new wine style. But it was with Umu’s kaiseki menu*, with which we tasted them in flights of three, that their virtues really became apparent. The cooking at Umu, which has a Michelin star, is in the opinion of many, the best Japanese food in London. I’ve certainly not tasted better outside Kyoto and the chef Ichiro Kubota certainly excelled himself yesterday.

The meal started with the most spectacular array of Iwaizakana (above right) a special New Year selection of dishes which was as beautiful as it was delicious. - a riot of different colours and textural contrasts. With ten components in all, each intricate, each unfamiliar, it’s hard to recall let alone describe each element accurately, but it included a amazing dish of squid and sea cucumber, a prawn, a tiny poached mandarin and I think, stuffed kelp with herring and extraordinary black beans topped with poached carrot and gold leaf. (Each element had some relation to water whether it was the river, pond or ocean) No flavour was intrusive but it encompassed a complete range of tastes - salty, sour, sweet, bitter and umami. And the koshu was as good an accompaniment as you could have chosen, refreshing the palate between each bite and allowing you to appreciate each new texture.

It also worked well with the next course of sashimi, especially some unctuously creamy pieces of squid - though not quite so well with the tuna toro which would, we felt, have probably been better with sake.

The next course was a rich seafood dumpling in a delicate white miso soup. Here the lighter wines showed better with the slightly glutinous casing of the dumpling and the fuller more rounded style of the Marquis Koshu (a 2009 tank sample) harmonised with the miso, showed off the rich seafood flavours of the filling and picked up with the umami-rich scattering of bonito flakes.

The wines struggled a little with the next dish, a savoury-sweet dish of sea bream ( I think) with pickles which again I think a sake would have taken better in its stride. The most successful pairing was again one of the fuller styles, the oak-aged Yamato 2009. It also created what I thought was the only discordant note of the meal - the combination with an intensely fruity almost Sauvignon-like wine (the Katsunuma Jyozo, I think) which was ironically the one that would have probably have paired best with a Western menu.

The savoury courses finished conventionally with a bowl of soup and rice but, needless to say, no ordinary soup, no ordinary rice: a fine dashi broth with some fine slivers of white fish and some delicately spiced rice topped with a steamed egg yolk, a tricky dish which defeated most of the wines except the 2007 Suntory barrique. (Actually it wasn’t dissimilar in texture to eggs benedict which also goes well with oaked whites.)

The meal ended with a red bean curd dessert with dumplings which the organisers wisely did not attempt to match with any of the wines.

So, the overall verdict? A meal of this sublime quality underlines that texture is as important as taste with Japanese food and the Koshu wines certainly respected that. Their crisp acidity worked particularly well with the raw and pickled dishes though there were some individual preparations I thought would have been better with sake - or vintage Champagne which I’ve found in the past goes really well with high-end Japanese cooking. The fuller-bodied, oaked Koshus came into their own with the richer dishes.

But there’s also an interesting cultural aspect at work here. I think a lot of people are going to be intrigued at the opportunity to drink Japanese wine in a Japanese restaurant and the fact that so many of the wines are modest in alcohol gives them an extra edge in these health-conscious times. (They would also go with lighter Western dishes). If the prices are reasonable I’m pretty sure they’ll take off.

* Kaiseke is the Japanese version of haute cuisine.

For more information about the wines check out the Koshu of Japan (KOJ) website
For Umu’s address, telephone number and menus visit their website (Prices for this level of cooking are actually very reasonable by Japanese standards)
For a good explanation of how kaiseki meals are structured read this piece on The Atlantic website

I attended the Umu lunch as a guest of Koshu of Japan.

Photo by Vinicius Benedit

What to drink with Scandinavian food

If culture and ‘terroir’ are a basis for deciding which drinks bestmatch a particular cuisine then beer must have a strong claim to bepaired with Scandinavian food.

Certainly London’s newest Scandi restaurant Madsen believes so offering a matching beer with every course for their recent menu for the London Restaurant Festival.

It was a nice idea that didn’t quite come off because of the quantities of beer involved. I ordered an Aer India Pale Ale from Denmark which was fine with my main course of ‘Hakkebøf med bløde løg’ (aka Danish beef burger with beetroot) but much less good with my ‘curry-marinated herring with green apples’ and a delicious smoked salmon dip, both of would have been better with a light lager or pilsner. Ideally you’d be able to order 250ml (or smaller) glasses so that you could match each course. 500ml is a lot of beer to drink for lunch (for girls at least ;-)

The food though was lovely - a modern take on smørrebrød with slightly larger helpings than you would get in Denmark but smaller than a standard main course - perfect for lunch. I also got to taste (though didn’t order) a fantastic baked crème caramel made with Svaneke ‘Choko’ Chocolate Stout so they’re obviously playing around with the idea of beer in food too.

There are other drink options, obviously, with this style of food though beer almost always scores better than wine with anything pickled in my opinion. A pan-fried fillet of Irish plaice with steamed broccoli tossed in oyster remoulade I also tasted would have been excellent with a minerally Sauvignon Blanc and my beefburger would have gone well with a Bordeaux or any similar Cabernet Merlot blend.

I like Madsen. It has a friendly, café-style design and atmosphere (very Scandi) and offers something genuinely distinctive to the London dining scene. They’re apparently thinking of putting on beer dinners so keep an eye on their website and on Twitter where they tweet as MadsenLondon.

Madsen is at 20 Old Brompton Road, London SW7 3DL. Tel 020 7225 2772.

I ate at Madsen as a guest of the restaurant.

Photo by Nextvoyage